Xi-an offers the Chinese version of an egg McMuffin. A local food cart fries buns and egg. You dish up your veggies, peppers, sauces and it's ten times tastier. We seek them out both mornings.

First night, we head to Muslim Quarter, a product of the silk trade's influence. It's brightly lit with butchered animals hanging in store windows. Little hope for the vegetarian. We find a kebab stand who will grill a wide array of veggies, seafood, and meat, coat it in garlic sauce and spices, then stick it in a pita. Our only regret is not ordering more.