Roads to Pha Taem National Park are quiet. Vehicles are more respectful of bikes in Asia. Less narrow-minded drivers.

Mushroom rock formations create a badlands atmosphere. People avoid falling into deep cracks in the rock floor or pose above.

Cave paintings give the area rich history. Three thousand years later, tourists stare at the red designs, high on the cliff faces: marine life, alien-like people with triangular heads, crisscross lines. Part of their death rituals. No further information disclosed.

Laos sits across the river. Valleys and flood plains indicate a stronger aquatic presence than we see today.

Ever changing environment.