Denali Highway
Fairbanks? To go or not to go?
We debated the notion for months, and three out of four adults on our trip decided, somewhat last minute, to skip it.
As the second largest city in Alaska, it would have been a nice pitstop for real bathrooms, restaurants, groceries, and any supplies we missed. But, with the northern lights not visible at this time of year, there was no specific draw to the area, except for the fact that it would have been an "easier" route. Roads are limited, and sometimes you have to go well out of your way to get where you're going.
The major roads of Alaska form a "figure 8" shape, and Fairbanks is at the top. Since we were heading east, it didn't make a lot of sense (on a digital map) to go that far north to then head south.
Maps showing the arc we could have taken through Fairbanks.
What was the alternative? The Denali Highway, a supposed "shortcut" through the mountains.
The Denali Highway
I read that it is one of the most scenic highways in the U.S. I had no doubt that it would be unforgettable. Still, I was the one out of four who said, "No way. Not in an RV." Most of the road is unpaved, and conditions could "vary."
I made my qualms known, but in the end, and although I had the full support of my thirteen-year-old, who is always down for cell service and a hearty lunch, it wasn't enough to change anyone else's mind. I wasn't going to be the one driving it, and everyone else wanted to get to the other side of Alaska as efficiently as possible.
Before we made the infamous turn, I glanced at the gas prices and my last thought was, "maybe they're right." I shrugged and kept my camera close. In that way, I knew it would be worth it.
The paved portion of the road lasted for only a few minutes. We didn't see pavement again for 110 miles. If anything was loose in the RV, it fell. The flour exploded in the pantry. It was THAT bumpy. We even lost the grate over our refrigerator components (and that cost us hours in Anchorage a few days later).
Once the pavement returned, the road dips were intense, especially in a low-riding vehicle. We didn't want to bottom out and had to take it slow the whole time. We did occasionally hit 55-60 mph on paved portions, but we endured rough patches where we could not safely exceed 15-20 mph. Average speed was about 30 mph. This was NOT the shortcut we envisioned. It took FOREVER, and we hit road construction on the other side. We were on gravel the whole day (by my estimation, over three times the length of Rhode Island). On top of that, it was hazy due to the forest fire near Fairbanks. I still took some amazing shots, but everything looks sad and dreary.
Am I glad we did it? Yes, now that it's over. I like my pictures, and it makes for a good story, one that ends with a good, old-fashioned, "I told you so!"
Would I do it again? No. Not unless I was in a Jeep I didn't care about, on a crystal-clear day.
I'm calling this one "Bridge to Nowhere."
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